Land Rover Discovery Alloy Rim Instructions
Due to the unique double safety lock design, the extremely soft natured alloy construction coupled with the equally unique factory fitted Michelin tyres this tyre/rim combination is without doubt the hardest 4wd rim to break the bead on. That is without the right equipment, technique and know how! These instructions are designed to be read in conjunction with the standard instructions provided with the purchase of your tool.
RIM PROTECTION (see figures below)
With the un-appealing look of a damaged rim, the potential of an un-useable rim and the expensive replacement cost of these rims it is of paramount importance that we eliminate any damage to the rim. Whilst we can eliminate any serious damage, it is impossible to eliminate 100% off markings to the silver sparkle finish. Done correctly, these markings will only be evident in non-visual areas of the rim. To eliminate damaging the rim we essentially want to avoid direct contact between the equipment and the rim using the following means/methods; use of rubber hosing sleeve over both the T-Piece and base of threaded rod (1/2” heater hose is excellent and is supplied with heavy duty tools) or common garden hose can also be used (Refer Figure 1), use of a cardboard packer underneath the tool where it comes into contact with the rim (Refer Figure 6), plastic clip on rim rim protectors are available for when using tyre levers lever (Refer Figures 9 - 12) and the taping of working surface of tyre levers with electrical tape.
BREAKING THE BEAD (see figures below)
These rims feature a tapered safety with the taper being at it’s shallowest 100mm (4”) each side of the valve. Refer Figures 19 (deep) and 20 (shallow) for vast difference on depth of safety. Breaking the bead on the narrow side first (outside of rim) and using the wheel stud hole as your anchor point, remove the threaded rod assembly from main body, fit spacer (Series 2 rims only) onto threaded rod with flat section downwards and feed threaded rod up through stud hole (so rounded section of spacer can fit into and pivot within stud hole) before re-connecting threaded rod to main body. Refer Figures 2 - 5.
Ensure that threaded rod when anchored in position is pulling down at an approximate 60 degree pulling angle by moving pivot block to one of the four positions available. This will allow the tools guide to push down closely to the rim. Refer Figures 7 - 8. Using incorrect pulling angle will result in tyre folding over. You may need to twist tool into position at same time of winding nut down threaded rod to ensure that the tool clears the lip of the rim. Refer Figure 15-16. Break the bead on the stud hole either side of the valve first (remembering to apply lubrication in-between the tyre and rim whilst tyre is being held down in the wheel well) then as and if required continue to break the bead moving your way around the rim away from the valve. If the tool will not push the tyre past the safety, the Superfoot attachment will be required.
Once the bead is completely broken, pull tyre over the narrow edge of rim using the spade end of tyre levers. Refer Figures 9 - 12.
Repeat process on back bead. Refer Figures 13 - 20.
Don't forget to mark position of tyre valve, wheel weights etc.
Apply lubrication at every opportunity in between the tyre and rim, Lux flakes mashed up with water is excellent.
Determine whether or not the Superfoot attachment is required for your rim.
The Superfoot attachment was designed to give the standard tool increased travel and angle and usage with the standard tool is a two step process. If the tool will not push tyre past the safety, release the tension on tool (while still connected to rim) allowing the tool to be lifted up enough for the Superfoot to be slid underneath the tool. Break bead with Superfoot in position. Ensure that 60° pulling angle is achieved on threaded rod otherwise Superfoot may contact and damage safety
RE-BEADING TUBELESS TYRE AS A TUBELESS TYRE
Probably the biggest difficulty to overcome is rebeading the tubeless tyre as a tubeless tyre. A 12volt compressor may not have the volume required to rebead the tyre, if this is the case you will need to slightly over inflate a tyre/s fitted to the vehicle to a pressure that you feel safe and comfortable with. These tyres are now our air storage tanks. With valve core removed from both the ‘good’ and ‘flat’ tyre, place length of 5/16” hose (should be a firm fit) over valves ensuring hose is kinked to stop air escaping. When ready un-kinking the hose will allow air to transfer into our ’flat’ tyre. Both the volume of air and the weight of the vehicle pushing it out should re-bead the tyre. However you may need to repeat the process with other tyres on the vehicle. Once rebeaded, re-inflate tyre/s to required pressure.
A manufacturers warning on the tyre advise that the tyre should not be rebeaded using more than 40psi (as a safety precaution) and that all tyre repairs should be done by a qualified tyre technician. Unfortunately this is not always possible, rebeading the tyre over this pressure and tyre repairs are done at the risk of the operator.
When re-beading it is recommended strongly that all safety precautions be taken including any person or equipment must be standing well clear and protected from rim/tyre where possible (behind vehicle/tree) and if required wearing safety glasses and ear protection. These tyres will re-bead with a big bang!
Always carry tubes for fitment as required if unable to rebead the tyre as tubeless. Remove fitted tube and rebead tyre as tubeless as soon as possible. Note that subsequent need to break bead with tube fitted may damage tube due to the need to break bead so close to the valve.